Train travel in Australia: traveller experiences

Lizet Wesselman - 04/12/2024

Where else can you drive for hours through red sand without seeing a single bit of tarmac? In Australia’s vast outback, of course. Train travel in Australia isn’t just a way to get from A to B – they offer a unique opportunity to experience the country in all its extremes. From tropical Queensland to the arid Nullarbor Plain, each route showcases the continent’s vast diversity.

A continent of great distances

For some remote communities, the weekly trains are a social highlight. Children wave enthusiastically as the train passes, farmers come to deliver their cargo, and the latest news is exchanged in the dining car. It is precisely this human side that makes train travel in Australia so special. The train connects not only big cities, but also small villages and remote settlements, where it is sometimes the only connection to the outside world.

Yet train journeys can be long and monotonous, with hours of the same scenery and trains not always equipped with modern conveniences. There is a clear contrast between the luxury tourist trains, such as the legendary Ghan and the Indian Pacific, and the outdated local trains that are mainly meant to transport people and goods.

Those who choose to train travel in Australia choose to travel through vast landscapes, past endless horizons and through areas where nature is pristine and unrelenting. It is a way of travelling that makes not only the vast distances but also the unique atmosphere of the country palpable.

Route: Darwin – Katherine – Alice Springs – Adelaide

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One of the world’s most famous rail journeys runs from Darwin in the north to Adelaide in the south aboard a train simply known as The GhanIt gained its name from the Afghanistan camel traders who crossed the desert in the 1860s, selling their animals as they travelled. 

I booked my journey on The Ghan for a luxurious two-night and three-day trip as an alternative to flying across Australia. I was looking forward to stopping off on the way at Katherine and Alice Springs before whizzing through The Flinders to finish my trip in Adelaide.

My cabin was configured as bunks as I was travelling with my son, and while not the most spacious of places to sleep, it was an adventure to go to sleep to the rocking of the train as it sped along the tracks. While I was awake, it was lovely to sit on my lower bunk, look out of my large window, and watch the Australian bush pass by.

I was pleased that The Ghan included some cool places to stop. We took tour boats out on Katherine Gorge and learnt about the area’s ecology and nature. We were told not to dangle our arms over the side of the boat just in case crocodiles were swimming by! The iconic Australian town of Alice Springs was another stop, where we took a tour of Anzac Hill, the famous bush flying school, and Telegraph Outpost. 

Although the Ghan is expensive, it offers a high standard of luxury in service and dining for the more discerning traveller and is a bucket-list experience in Australia.

Cairns  – Baron Falls  – Kuranda

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The Kuranda Scenic Railway is one of Australia’s most beautiful train trips. The two-hour train runs between the Far North Queensland town of Cairns to Kuranda in the Atherton Tablelands. The Kuranda Railway passes lush, green rainforest, breath-taking waterfalls, and spectacular mountain scenery. It was originally built to transport supplies to and from the inland mines to Cairns on the coast. Onboard the train there is a commentary that tells of the gruelling construction of the railway, costing the lives of many workers from 1887 to 1891.

A popular day trip, and what I did when I visited, was take the Kuranda Scenic Railway from Cairns to Kuranda. The whole train journey has incredible views as you wind your way up the mountain, losing sight of the coast and venturing further into the rainforest. On the way to Kuranda, the train stops for a short time at Baron Falls. You have the chance to get out and take photos of this spectacular and powerful waterfall before continuing to the town of Kuranda.

Kuranda Railway station is beautifully decorated with lush green plants native to the area. The town of Kuranda has a lot of nice walks, beautiful scenery, interesting restaurants and markets. The town is known for its hippie subculture and laid back atmosphere.

For the return trip, take the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway, a cable car which glides above the World Heritage listed Wet Tropics Rainforest. The Wet Tropics Rainforest is the oldest rainforest in the world, older than the Amazon. Taking the Kuranda Scenic Railway and Skyrail combination means you can experience this beautiful, ancient, and dense rainforest from all angles. 

Brisbane – Longreach

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While you can easily fly from Brisbane to Outback Queensland, it is more fun and adventurous to take the 26-hour-long train journey on Spirit of the Outback.

Spirit of the Outback runs roundtrip from Brisbane to Longreach in Outback Queensland.  Basic economy seats are available as are all-inclusive sleeper cars.  My family of 4 opted to travel to Longreach on the train and we all agreed that it added to the unique Outback experience.

Sleeper cars include double and single rooms, so we needed 2 rooms for my family.  That way, we could see out of both sides of the train easily!  We also had access to the dining car and the lounge car.  

Trains leave at different times of the day depending on the day of the week.  Our train left at night and included dinner.  The next day, breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea were included before we arrived in Longreach.

If you get hungry between meals, a bar is set up at the back of the lounge car.  Free hot drinks are available in the morning, and other drinks and snacks can be purchased all day.

The train stopped and allowed passengers out in the towns of Emerald, Alpha, and Barcaldine.  Barcaldine is on the Tropic of Cancer and has the Tree of Knowledge, which is where the Australia Labour Party was formed.

The view out the train window changed a lot on our journey from Brisbane, up Queensland’s coast, and into the Outback.  Our favorite view was watching emu at sunset while enjoying afternoon tea right before arriving in Longreach.

Sydney – Brisbane

Recommended by Emma from That Travel

The Sydney to Brisbane train route between Queensland and New South Wales in Australia is certainly an interesting experience!

It’s more of a commuters train than a scenic ride through Australia and a lot of it goes through mountains and grasslands, rather than along the coast. That being said, some of the countryside along the way is very pretty, and you can keep your eyes peeled for wildlife, like kangaroos and wallabies.

The trains themselves are pretty old, so you can expect limited facilities (think: no WiFi, no electricity and not much else to entertain you!), and there is not much difference between first class and economy.

The route from Sydney to Brisbane is 12 hours in total (though delays are common!), and you do feel like you’ve stepped back in time. You can expect friendly and jovial train conductors, proper old-fashioned cooked meals, and even tea and scones around 11am (all chargeable)!

It’s certainly a unique way to experience the country, and there are some lovely little coastal stops you can make along the way, including Coffs Harbour, Port Macquarie and Newcastle. The perfect way to do this trip would be to break up the journey in all three of those spots. Spend some time hiking the Hinterland rainforest near Coffs Harbour, relaxing on the beach in Port Macquarie (or visit their amazing koala conservation hospital) and check out the Hunter Wetlands and other National Parks near Newcastle.

Find out more about the Sydney – Brisbane train!

Hi, I’m Lizet! Through my blogs, I take you on an adventure into the world of sustainable travel. From hidden gems to eco-friendly accommodations and smart travel tips—I help you explore the world more consciously, without compromising on unforgettable experiences.

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